Print Finishing

Difficulty: Beginner

Basic mechanical sanding kit – available at any hobby store.

Sandpaper

120 / 240 / 400 / 600 / 1000 / 2000

Technology

Wet sanding from grit 400

Final polishing

Polishing paste for plastics (Quixx)

Protection

Respirator FFP2/FFP3 + protective glasses

• Sanding block or cork pad: For flat surfaces – prevents paper bowing and uneven sanding.

• Bowl with lukewarm water + detergent: Reduces surface tension - water washes away sanded plastic better.

• Cotton cloth: For final polishing with paste – synthetics can scratch.

💡 Tip: For colored filaments, heat with a gun - the color will "pull out"

With each grit size, you must completely remove the scratches left by the previous one; otherwise, they will still be visible under the gloss.

• Step 1 - Rough comparison (120): Remove seams (z-seam) and remnants of supports. Sand until the surface is uniformly matte.

• Step 2 – Gradual Refinement (240 → 400): Each grain must completely remove the grooves after the previous one.

• Step 3 – Wet Sanding (400 → 2000): Soak both the paper and the model. Water washes away the plastic and prevents lint from friction.

• Step 4 – Final Polishing: After 2000 grit, use a cotton cloth and polishing paste. Circular movements = high shine.

• Step 5 – Check: Clean the IPA - you will see the real condition of the surface without dust.

Difficulty: Expert — for ABS/ASA or PVB only

An airtight container + the correct solvent. There’s no room for improvisation here.

Solvent (ABS/ASA)

Technical acetone

Solvent (PVB)

Isopropylalkohol (IPA) 99 %

Container

Glass or metal, hermetic

Protection

Nitrile gloves + mask with organic filter

• Paper towels + clips: To line the walls of the container - moisten it, it must not run.

• Aluminum foil or glass: The mat for the model – it must not be porous.

⚠️ Do not extend the exposure - overexposure will dissolve the details without a trace

Check the process every 5 minutes. As soon as the layers disappear, remove the model immediately.

• Step 1 – Chamber Preparation: Line the sides of the container with damp cloths. It must not run - only moistened.

• Step 2 - Place the model: Model on a non-porous mat in the center of the container. It must not touch the towels.

• Step 3 – Exposure: Close the container. Check every 5 min. Is the surface shiny? Remove immediately.

• Step 4 – Curing: The model will be soft and sticky for 24-48 h. Do not touch it - you will leave prints.

• Step 5 - Neutralization: Done when the model stops smelling of solvent.

Difficulty: Advanced

Spray putty (aerosol) is the foundation. Use two-part putty only for deep scratches.

Spray Sealant

Spray-on primer filler (aerosol)

Scratch Filler

Two-component polyester (car sealant)

Interlayer Grinding

Grit 320–600

Tip

Auto-filler is cheaper than modeling spray

• Modeling spatula: For manual application of two-component putty in deep grooves.

• Abrasive fleece: For fine alignment of the filler without excessive sanding of the plastic.

💡 Auto-filler is cheaper and has a higher filling capacity than modeling spray

The goal is to even out the color and smooth the surface before the final coat of paint.

• Step 1 - Degreasing: Wash with spring water or IPA. The sealant does not stick to grease.

• Step 2 - Rough caulking: Fill the deep grooves along the supports with a two-component putty. Let it dry for 30 minutes, then sand it flat.

• Step 3 – First Filler Layer: Apply the spray sealant in 2-3 thin layers. It fills microscopic gaps.

• Step 4 - Control Grinding (400): The filler will remain in the depressions, the bumps will be ground away. You can see the contrast = good.

• Step 5 – Final Primer: A final coat of smooth base coat will unify the color before painting.

Difficulty: Advanced

Key principle: multiple thin layers > one thick layer. Always.

Colors

Acrylic spray or Airbrush

Camouflage

Paper tape 0.24-0.71 in (yellow)

Clear Coat

Matte / satin / glossy

Paint Drying

12-24 h before applying the varnish

• Quality brushes (synthetic hair): For detailed painting and wash technique.

• Test piece: Always test the combination of paint and varnish of different brands - they can react to each other.

💡 Always test different brands of paints and varnishes beforehand on a waste piece

Dust in fresh paint = the biggest enemy of a good finish. Work in a clean area.

• Step 1 – Masking: Press the edges of the tape firmly with your fingernail so that the paint does not bleed through.

• Step 2 – Base color (mist coats): Very thin layers - never try to "pour" the color in one layer.

• Step 3 – Wash technique: The very thinned black color will flow into the joints and create depth and realism.

• Step 4 – Clear Coat (protective varnish): Apply after 12-24 hours of paint drying. Protects against UV, sweat and scratches.

• Step 5 – Polishing the paint: For extreme shine, sand with 3000 grit paper after a week of aging and polish with paste.

Combine methods - sanding → sealing → painting = professional result

Every method has its place. You don't have to choose just one—combine them.

Grinding

All Materials | Beginner

Acetone vapors

Only ABS/ASA or PVB | Expert

Filling + Primer

All Materials | Advanced

Painting

All Materials | Advanced

• 💡 Best combination: Sanding (120→600) → Primer Filler → Control Sanding (400) → Color → Clear Coat.