How to Get Started with 3D Printing

Look for an open-frame FDM printer with auto-leveling and ready-made profiles

For most beginners, the best choice is an open-frame FDM printer that uses PLA and PETG. It’s quieter, easier to set up for the first time, and doesn’t immediately require you to deal with filtration and an enclosure.

• What's really important: Auto-leveling, a sensible app or slicer profile, and a good community. Marketing speed claims are not critical in the first month.

• Don't worry about yet: A closed chamber, 0.01 in nozzles, carbon filaments or tuning for 23.6 in/s — these are advanced steps for later.

For ABS, ASA, PA and CF compounds, prefer enclosure and higher nozzle temperature

If you already know you're interested in functional and heat-resistant parts, don't base your choice solely on price. When it comes to technical materials, the key factors are the chamber, stability, and a seamless slicer workflow.

• A typical signal that you need an enclosure: You want to print car parts, engine mounts, outdoor parts from ASA or durable parts from nylon and composite.

• For a beginner it still applies: Even on a closed printer, start PLA. First understand the process, then add challenging materials.

For the very first machine, FDM almost always makes more sense

Resin is great for miniatures and fine detail, but as a first printer, it tends to be unnecessarily demanding in terms of space, chemicals, safety precautions, and post-processing for most people.

• Why we recommend FDM to newcomers: Less operational mess, cheaper start, easier storage of material and a more natural way to the first functional prints.

• When resin makes sense right away: When you know you want figurines, dental models or very fine miniatures and you have a separate well-ventilated area for washing and curing.

Bambu Lab A1 / A1 Mini

They're extremely fast, virtually maintenance-free, and have a great mobile app.

Press Room

10.1 x 10.1 x 10.1 in

Max. speed

19.7 in/s

Max. nozzle temperature

572 °F (PLA, PETG, TPU, technical materials)

A unique feature

Print tracking camera + color printing (AMS lite)

• Multi-color printing (AMS lite): Connect AMS lite and the printer will automatically change up to 4 filament colors without your intervention.

• On-the-fly calibration: Use this recommendation while configuring your print.

• Bambu Handy mobile application: Use this recommendation while configuring your print.

• Active flow compensation: Sensors monitor the exact amount of plastic from the nozzle – no gaps or lumps in the print.

• Silent mode: Engine noise reduction technology makes the A1 series one of the quietest printers on the market.

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Creality Ender-3 V3

An affordable introduction to the world of 3D printing that will teach you how a 3D printer works. ⚠️ Warning: 3D printing on the Ender is highly addictive and will probably teach you the basics of mechanical engineering!

Press Room

8.7 x 8.7 x 9.8 in

Max. speed

23.6 in/s

Design

CoreXZ (stable at high speeds)

Display

4.3" color touchscreen (Creality OS)

• CoreXZ architecture The modern design enables speeds of up to 23.6 in/s while maintaining high precision – ideal for understanding the mechanics of 3D printing.

• Modifications and upgrades Use this recommendation while configuring your print.

• 🔧 Availability of parts: Spare parts are cheap and available in every Czech e-shop. An ideal machine for "playing" without fear of expensive repairs.

• Software and firmware The open system allows for deeper modifications like the Klipper. Anyone interested in IT and software will appreciate it.

Prusa MK4S

A Czech printer with legendary support that will last you for years and is easy to repair.

Press Room

9.8 x 8.3 x 9.8 in

Max. speed

By setting (focusing on quality)

Extruder

Nextruder + Load Cell (perfect 1st layer without calibration)

Connectivity

Wi-Fi, Ethernet, Prusa Connect remote management

• 🎯 Loadcell senzor: The extruder itself changes the exact distance of the nozzle from the pad. No manual fine-tuning - the first layer is always perfect.

• 🇨🇿 Czech support: Customer service in Czech, a huge community on the Prusa forum and fast delivery of spare parts from a warehouse in the Czech Republic.

• ♻️ Sustainability: Prusa invests in ecological operations and most parts are replaceable. The printer is designed to last for years.

• ⚡ Prusa Connect: Remote management via Wi-Fi or Ethernet. Monitor printing from your computer or phone from anywhere.

Anycubic Kobra 3 Combo

Anycubic's official specifications list a build volume of 9.8 x 9.8 x 10.2 in, support for 4 to 8 colors, LeviQ 3.0 auto-leveling, and a nozzle temperature of up to 572 °F. It’s an interesting choice if you’re looking for a combination of affordability, speed, and multicolor printing.

Press Room

9.8 x 9.8 x 10.2 in

Max. speed

23.6 in/s (recommended 11.8 in/s)

Max. nozzle temperature

572 °F

Strength

4- to 8-color printing + ACE For filament drying

• LeviQ 3.0 a Z-offset: Automatic alignment of the pad and Z-offset adjustment will shorten the time between unpacking and the first print.

• Multicolor printing without expensive entry into the top segment: If logos, figures and colorful accessories attract you, the Kobra 3 Combo makes better sense than buying the cheapest monochrome printer and immediately wanting to outdo it.

• A trade-off that is good to know: The ecosystem is less mature than Prusa or Bambu. If you want maximum carefreeness, always drive Bamba or Prusa.

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QIDI Q1 Pro

QIDI officially lists a build volume of 9.6 x 9.6 x 9.4 in, a nozzle up to 662 °F, an actively heated chamber up to 140 °F, a CoreXY design, and Klipper. This makes it one of the strongest choices for beginners who know they don’t want to limit themselves to PLA.

Press Room

9.6 x 9.6 x 9.4 in

Max. nozzle temperature

662 °F

Chamber

Active heating up to 140 °F

Design

CoreXY + Klipper + automatic leveling

• Big advantage against open printers: ABS, ASA, PA and composites print more stably because the chamber reduces drafts and thermal shocks.

• Still friendly for newbies: Use this recommendation while configuring your print.

• To whom to recommend it: For people who want to heat print functional components, prototypes and parts. Not for someone who just wants to get started with PLA figures and decorations on the cheap.

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Recommended option

Most disappointments aren't caused by a bad printer, but by unrealistic expectations. Before placing an order, ask yourself these five questions.

Space on the table

Allow at least +20 to 30 cm around the printer

Noise

Open FDM for the study, not ideally next to the bed

Resources for Getting Started

PLA first, PETG later

Service and Parts

Check the availability of nozzles, pads and support

• 1. What I will print in the first month: Decorations, organizers, cable holder, boxes, toys, prototypes. This will determine if you mainly need simplicity or technical materials.

• 2. How much do I want to pay for the service: If not enough, avoid a printer that you buy with the plan that you have to upgrade it right away. It almost always slows the start for newbies.

• 3. Where should I put the printer: A printer needs a stable table, a drawer, space for a spool and reasonable ventilation. Enclosure models need more depth and height.

• 4. Profiles and tutorials are available: A strong community and pre-made slicer profiles mean fewer blind attempts and faster first success.

A low entry price can mean an expensive start in terms of time and nerves

When a machine is cheap mainly on paper, it often lacks high-quality profiles, support, a stable base, or decent build quality. A beginner then can't tell whether the problem is their own mistake or a hardware issue.

• Warning signal: Use this recommendation while configuring your print.

A strong machine is not automatically the best first machine

If you only want to print PLA organizers, figurines, and small holders for the first three months, a heavy-duty machine designed for ABS, nylon, and composites will make your decision harder rather than easier.

• It only makes sense if you know why: For example, you want functional parts for heat, outdoor use or you are already planning to work with ASA, ABS or PA.

The bazaar can be a win, but it is often a trap for the newcomer

An experienced user can spot worn-out rails, a clogged nozzle, or misaligned firmware. A beginner often ends up with someone else’s problem and then thinks that’s what normal 3D printing looks like.

• When a bazaar makes sense: When someone you trust sells you a machine, they show you the print, give you a profile, the history of the machine and you know that parts are still available.

1 quality PLA + IPA + cutters + a pair of microfiber cloths

This isn't a list of gadgets. These are things that actually shorten the time from unboxing to the first usable print.

Filament for getting started

1× high-quality PLA 0.07 in, ideally gray or white

Cleaning the Pad

IPA 90-99% + microfiber

Basic Tools

Side splitting forceps + tweezers

Safely Removing the Printout

After cooling, not with a strong metal scraper

• Buy just one extra type of filament: Use this recommendation while configuring your print.

• IPA is not a detail: A greasy pad is the reason for a huge part of failed first prints. A pure PEI pad solves more problems than ten slicer settings.

Recommended option

First, learn the workflow. Only then should you spend extra on things that solve a specific problem—not just for the fun of shopping.

• Digital caliper: It is suitable for checking the calibration cube, holes, pins and tolerance joints. It is almost mandatory for functional printing.

• Replacement nozzle 0.02 in: The nozzle is a consumable part. When you have it at home, you are not blocked by banal dirt or wear.

• Filament dryer: Not necessary for PLA right away. For PETG, TPU, ASA and especially nylon, it quickly becomes one of the most useful tools in the workshop.

Stable table, no draft, good drawer and room for a spool

A printer prefers quiet and predictable conditions. The fewer random environmental factors there are, the faster you'll figure out what's causing the problem.

• Fixed table: Lightly wobbly tables degrade print quality, increase noise, and can worsen ghosting at higher speeds.

• No draft: An open window next to the printer can destroy the first layer and large PLA parts. With ABS and ASA, a draft is almost certain to be a problem.

• Place for handling: You need space to open the enclosure door, remove the pad and change the coil. Not only the size of the printer, but also the space around it.

PLA and PETG are the easiest to start with. ABS/ASA require better ventilation and more discipline.

It's not about having a lab. It's about not running the printer in a needlessly stupid way.

• Materials to get started: PLA or PETG. They are the most predictable and do not make such demands on enclosure and removal as ABS or ASA.

• Pets and children: Rotating parts, hot nozzle and cables are not attractions. Do not place the printer where they can reach it without supervision.

• Don't leave clutter around the printer: Free sprays, paper, bags and piles of cardboard around the hot machine make no sense. Keep operations clean and predictable.

Step by step

Three basic steps you need to take before printing for the first time.

• 1. Build: Follow the instructions strictly. Check the tension of the belts and the verticality of the frame.

• 2. Auto-leveling a Z-Offset: Start automatic pad calibration. Subsequently, use a sheet of paper to set the correct Z-Offset.

• 3. Firmware update: Use this recommendation while configuring your print.

PLA

The simplest material—great detail, odorless. The ideal choice for your first print.

Nozzle temperature

392 - 419 °F

Pad Temperature

32 - 140 °F

Suitability

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (for beginners)

• Starting tip: Buy good quality PLA in a neutral color (gray, silver). Errors in settings are best seen on these colors, which you can then easily correct.

PETG

More durable than PLA, suitable for functional parts. It tends to string—requires proper retraction settings.

Nozzle temperature

446 - 473 °F

Pad Temperature

158 - 185 °F

Suitability

⭐⭐⭐ (Intermediate)

ABS

A highly durable material, but difficult to print on. Requires an enclosed box (enclosure) and good ventilation.

Nozzle temperature

464 - 500 °F

Pad Temperature

212 - 230 °F

Suitability

⭐ (advanced)

Bambu Studio

The best choice for Bambu Lab printers. Built-in camera and cloud printing.

• Main advantage: Direct cloud printing, camera monitoring, automatic profiles for Bambu printers.

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PrusaSlicer

An excellent choice for Prusa printers and others. Fully Czech interface.

• Main advantage: Czech menu, precise control, great for Prusa MK4S and multi-material printing.

Ultimaker Cura

The most widely used slicer with a huge community and thousands of plugins.

• Main advantage: Support for almost every printer, huge library of profiles and plugins.

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Anycubic Slicer Next

Anycubic states that Slicer Next is based on OrcaSlicer and is optimized for their printers. For owners of the Kobra series, this is the quickest way to get working profiles.

• Main advantage: Quick start with profiles for Anycubic, integration with the mobile app, and less need for manual tuning right out of the box.

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QIDI Studio

QIDI officially supports both its own slicer and third-party solutions such as PrusaSlicer or Orca. If you have a Q1 Pro, start with the default profile and then experiment.

• Main advantage: Pre-made profiles for enclosures, technical filaments, and integration with the QIDI workflow.

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Start with a slicer from the printer manufacturer. And then try Orca, PrusaSlicer or Cura.

A beginner doesn't need the most features. They need to get predictable print results as quickly as possible.

• If the default profiles work for you: Use this recommendation while configuring your print.

• When to change the slicer: When you lack a specific feature, better multi-printer management, more detailed support, or want to standardize your workflow across different brands.

Printer selection

As soon as you launch the program for the first time, it will prompt you to select a printer.

• Printer: Find your make and model. This sets the pad size (eg 8.7 x 8.7 in).

• Nozzle: Leave the default value of 0.02 in unless you have physically changed it to another.

Generic PLA

The slicer needs to know what you're printing.

Recommended Profile

Generic PLA

Nozzle temperature

410 - 428 °F

Pad Temperature

131 - 140 °F

• Tip Select the Generic PLA profile – the program will automatically set the correct temperatures.

Slice → Export

Steps from importing the model to sending it to the printer.

• Import: Use the Import button (or drag and drop) to insert the .stl file into the slicer.

• Slice: Click on Slice - the slicer calculates the paths of the print head.

• Export G-code: Save the finished file on a micro-SD card or send it to the printer via Wi-Fi.

• ⚠️ Important: For the first months of printing, stay in Basic (Simple) mode to avoid errors in advanced settings.

The most common type of home 3D printer

An FDM printer melts plastic filament and deposits it layer by layer. For beginners, this is the most practical and versatile way to get started in the world of 3D printing.

• What it means for you Cheaper operation, easier maintenance and a wide range of materials and spare parts.

A program that converts a model into instructions for a printer

The slicer takes an STL, 3MF, or STEP file and converts it into individual layers, speeds, temperatures, and print head movements.

• Simply put: Without a slicer, the printer does not know how to actually print the model.

The output from the slicer that the printer reads

G-code is a file containing specific commands for axis movement, nozzle heating, fans, and material extrusion.

• Prakticky: A model is not the same as a print file. A model is a design, G-code is a plan for a specific print.

Two key things for the first layer

Auto-leveling maps the surface of the build plate, and the Z-offset determines the exact distance between the nozzle and the plate. Without a properly set first layer, the rest of the print won't be reliable either.

• Why address it: Most beginner problems are not in the model, but in the first layer and the cleanliness of the mat.

Flexible printing surface for easy removal of the print

PEI is a surface commonly used for printing with both PLA and PETG. Once the print has cooled, it is often enough to gently bend the print bed, and the model will release on its own.

• Important rule: Handle the PEI pad cleanly and gently. Dirt and aggressive scratching destroys adhesion and durability.

Enclosed space around the printer

The enclosed chamber helps maintain a stable temperature around the model. This is especially important for ABS, ASA, nylon, and other more sensitive materials.

• When you really need it: As soon as you leave the comfortable world of PLA and start dealing with materials sensitive to drafts and temperature fluctuations.

Calibration Cube 20×20×20

Download the model from Printables or Thingiverse and open it in a slicer.

• Download: Download the Calibration Cube 20×20×20 from Printables or Thingiverse.

• Import: Open the file in the slicer (Bambu Studio / PrusaSlicer / Cura) by dragging or using the Import button.

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Recommended values

Set these values for your first print with PLA filament.

Nozzle temperature

410 °F

Pad Temperature

140 °F

Layer Thickness

0.01 in (Layer Height)

Infill

10-15% (grid)

Cooling

100% (PLA requires max. blow)

Recommended option

Once the print job starts, stay by the printer and watch the first layer.

• ❌ Too close: The nozzle digs into the pad, the plastic is invisible or transparent.

• ❌ Too high: The plastic fibers do not stick together, the model starts to slide on the surface.

• ✅ Ideal: The plastic is slightly pressed into the mat and forms a continuous surface without gaps.

Let it cool

Once the printer is finished, let the build plate cool to room temperature—the model will often come off on its own.

• Dimensions: Measure the sides of the cube with a caliper - they should be 0.79 in.

• Letter X, Y, Z: Check the letters on the sides of the cube - they must be sharp and legible.

Printables.com

A modern, user-friendly website with an emphasis on quality. A great Czech community and a reward system for printed copies.

• Tip In the section "Comments" and "Makes" you will find photos of finished prints and proven settings from other users.

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MakerWorld.com

A rapidly growing website with mobile printing integration via Bambu Handy and great models.

• Advantage: Direct integration with Bambu printers - send the model to the printer with one click.

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Thingiverse.com

A vast archive of 3D printing history. Here you'll find everything from cable holders to replacement parts for household appliances.

• Note: The oldest platform - some models are old, but the archive is unsurpassed.

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Section: Models

In the app, you'll find a complete overview of all popular platforms—both free and paid.

• Free platformy: Printables, MakerWorld, Thingiverse, MyMiniFactory, Thangs and more.

• Paid platforms: CGTrader, Cults3D, Gambody - premium and licensed models.

The first good model = small, without supports, with lots of Makes and commentary

A beautiful model might not be the best choice for your first print. What's more important is that it shows you the printer is working and that you understand the workflow.

• Search for verified models: The section Makes, remixes and comments will quickly tell you whether the model can be printed by ordinary home printers or just the author on an ideally tuned machine.

• Avoid models with supports at first: Complicated overhangs, integrated threads and large bridges belong after the calibration cube, Benches and a couple of simple boxes.

• Prefer 3MF when available 3MF often also carries model orientation and other useful metadata. STL is fine, but provides less information to the slicer.

One change at a time. Otherwise, you won't know what actually helped.

The goal of the first week is not to become an expert, but to build confidence in the process and create your own basic profile.

• Day 1-2 Print a calibration cube, a small box and a simple, practically model without supports. Monitor the quality of the first layer and dimensional accuracy.

• Day 3-4 Try different PLA models and fine-tune just one thing: temperature, speed or retraction. Not all at once.

• Day 5-7 Save your own profile for a specific filament, note the proven values, and only then move on to PETG or more complex models.

Do not change the firmware, slicer, nozzle and filament in one evening

After your first successful print, it's tempting to start experimenting with everything. But that's exactly when most people lose their bearings and start trying to fix problems they've created themselves.

• Don't overhaul the printer too early: Until you have 20–30 hours of normal printing, it's not worth pursuing alternative firmware, custom input shaping, or replacing half the hotend.

• Don't race internet times: Just because someone printed a Benchy in 12 minutes doesn't mean that's a reasonable goal for your second weekend with a new printer.

• Don't buy 10 spools at once: Each spool can behave differently. It's better to start with a stable setup than to buy many different filaments at once without reference settings.